Reservoir may feel like a college-town cafe, but there is nothing junior varsity about the food. First impressions imply casual, unpretentious and hip. Reservoir is all of those things, but it’s also a place that takes its food very serious.
You know right from the beginning of your meal that someone in the kitchen is paying attention to detail. The soft, French bread arrives with a small dish of olive oil, something that is standard issue fare. But the dish is decorated with an R, perfectly drawn in balsamic vinegar. A nice touch.
Chef Dany Bolduc is at the kitchen’s helm at Reservoir. He worked alongside the original chef, Samuel Pinard, and left to help him open La Salle a Manger. He’s now back running the kitchen at Reservoir. His commitment to locally sourced ingredients mixed with a pastry chef background come together for cooking that pleases all of the senses.
A recent lunch included fletan gravlax (halibut) from New Brunswick on top of a puree of orange confit and a side salad of cucumber and fennel, served on a wooden plank ($10 Canadian). The flavors were subtle and sublime. Boudin noir on top of sauteed apples with veal tongue and celery puree ($15 Canadian) was just the type of dish you want on a cold winter’s day - rich and flavorful, but not in a foie gras poutine kind of way. It was served with a side salad of peppery arugula in a mason jar. It provided a counter note to the rich meatiness of the boudin noir and veal tongue.
There’s an elegance and refinement to the food at Reservoir that you wouldn’t expect from the casual ambiance. Saumon saisi panisse ($16 Canadian) came with eggplant blinis, a chickpea croquette, and feta and apple grenade. The local salmon was cooked just right, rich pink on the inside without being dried out. The accompanying sides complimented the fish, while adding a heartiness to the dish.
We couldn’t turn down the chance to taste Pouding Chômeur (poor man’s pudding,$6), the Quebec treat that became a staple during the Depression. This classic meal-ender could cheer up anyone. It’s half-pudding, half-cake, with a caramelized maple syrup sauce.
Lunch is the best time to go to Reservoir. Large picture windows bathe the room with sunlight, the atmosphere is laid-back, and the menu is at its best. At night, the cafe turns into more of a bar and only serves snacks like olives, homemade chips, and fried calamari. On the weekends, they have earned a great reputation for their brunch. Beyond the food, make sure you try one of their homemade beers, brewed right on the premises.
Slide Show
For more about Brasserie Reservoire, watch the slide show.
Recommendations
Reservoir’s recommendations for restaurants in Montreal and New York.
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