Q & A with Chef Andrew Little
Q. You’re taking a contemporary approach with Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine. Tell us about your unique spin?
A. The real driver for me is that I’m trying to establish a sense of place with our food. We’re very lucky to be located in some of the most fertile farmland in all of America and also to have a cuisine as interesting at the Pennsylvania Dutch as a jumping off point. I grew up five blocks from the restaurant; grew up eating many of the dishes that currently litter our menus. The contemporary approach is simply taking inspiration from those flavor memories of my childhood, finding great local raw ingredients and letting my imagination put interesting dishes on the plate.
Q. What are some iconic Pennsylvania Dutch dishes and can you give us an Intro 101 description of them:
1. Shoofly Pie – a wet bottomed molasses pie with crumb topping.
2. Scrapple – a combination of pork meat, corn meal, buckwheat flower, and spices. Cooked, poured into mold and chilled. Once fully chilled, it is sliced and fried to a crispy golden brown. Served with maple syrup or ketchup.
3. Schnitz und Knepp – a hearty stew of dried apple, ham, and dumplings.
4. Slippery Noodle Pot Pie – thick noodles swimming in a thick bath of stock, vegetables and meat.
5. Apple Dumplings – a whole apple encased in a pastry crust and baked off. Most often served with warm cream, whipped cream or ice cream.
Q. How does your previous experience working with chef Patrick O’Connell at Virginia’s renowned Inn at Little Washington influence you currently?
A. Honestly, I was the serious low man on the totem pole at The Inn at Little Washington. I did my best to keep my head down, work as hard as I could and soak in every detail about the property and how it worked. The thing about working for Patrick [O'Connell], that still informs how I cook today, is his complete and total respect for the foods of the area. He was cooking terroir-based cuisine in the United States before anyone else... incidentally, he was also ‘farm-to-table’ before there was such a term.
Q. Can we get you to share some starter tips for people who want to grow their own herbs or vegetables?
A. The biggest tip I can give with regards to growing herbs and vegetables is to take a good deal of time planning. If you have a great game plan, you’re in great shape. Take note of the type of soil you have, your exposure to the sun and your growing zone. Match the type of herbs and vegetables to your garden type and off you go! Gardening is an intense relationship...the more you give, the more you get!
Q. Is it possible to grow anything in a New York City apartment?
A. Sure. If you have access to a rooftop, you’re in super shape! If you have a southern facing balcony, you can certainly grow herbs and some lettuces in a window box. Herbs are always winners and can add a super fresh bounce to home cooked meals!
FIND...
Q. My favorite secret weapon in the kitchen is:
A. Sherry vinegar.
Q. What specific markets do you love to shop / browse (locally and beyond)?
A. The first would have to be our own Carriage House Market located behind the restaurant in Hanover, PA.
The Central Market House in York, PA is a favorite place of mine to browse.
I love DiBruno’s in Philadelphia for cheese and fantastic foodstuffs from around the world.
Kitchen Arts and Letters in New York City. When I’m in need of inspiration via cookbooks, I make a trip there.
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Q. What’s your favorite resource to use as a cheat sheet (book/website/any other resource)?
A. Thomas Keller’s Under Pressure. I use this book for time and temperature information for sous vide cooking.
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Q. Who are the chefs that you like to follow on Twitter and what do you like about them?
A. Chris Cosentino (@offalchris). He loves to cook the whole animal, I love to cook the whole animal.
Barton Seaver (@bartonseaver). We were at CIA together and he’s a great crusader for sustainable seafood.
Richard Blais (@richardblais). He left it all hanging out there on Top Chef and I really respect that.
Rene Redzepi (@reneredzepinoma). He cooks hyper terroir-based food. I dig that.
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EAT...
Q. What are the classic dishes to eat when we visit Pennsylvania Dutch Country and what restaurants should we go to for them?
A. Shoofly pie, schnitz und knepp, soft pretzels, birch beer, chicken pot pie, scrapple, apple dumplings.
Philadelphia’s Reading Terminal Market is one of my favorite places for straight ahead Pennsylvania Dutch cooking. There is a food stand called the Dutch Eating Place.
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Q. What local restaurants serve food that you crave and what do you love to order?
A. Crabb’s Tropical Treat. It’s an amazing drive-in in Hanover, Pennsylvania. It’s only open from mid-March until the early fall and they have a sandwich called the Fat Boy, which could be described as the Big Mac’s much better tasting cousin. Once March comes rolling around, I start to crave the opening of ‘The Treat’ and my first Fat Boy of the year.
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Q. What are your favorite off the beaten track restaurants (anywhere/casual or fancy) and what do you love about the places?
A. I love simple food.
Pennsylvania
Famous Hot Weiner - it’s in Hanover and I love it. They specialize in hot dogs with ‘everything’ which consists of a hot dog topped with mustard, chili sauce and an insane amount of onions’ pair those hot dogs with French fries topped with chili and a milkshake and I’m a happy boy. It’s a true taste of the area.
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Virginia
Kline’s Dairy Bar in Harrisonburg, VA has my favorite chocolate peanut butter ice cream!
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Tennessee
Litton’s in Knoxville, Tennessee. My wife is originally from there, so when we go, I love a cheeseburger at Litten’s, followed by a huge slice of red velvet cake.
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DRINK...
Q. Do you have a favorite local watering hole / cocktail spot and what do you like about it?
A. I don’t really have a favorite local watering hole. However, there is nothing more refreshing than an ice cold National Bohemian beer after service while we’re cleaning up.
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Q. Any spirits / wine that you’re currently excited about?
A. I love Campari right now. I love the bitter flavor with some soda water and lime. It’s very refreshing!
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Recommendations
Details of Andrew Little’s recommendations for where to eat and shop in Pennsylvania, Virginia and Tennessee.
Recipes
- Chestnut & Mushroom Stuffing
- Pretzel Rolls
- Shoofly Pie
- Salted Caramel Sauce