Q & A with Chef David Kinch
Q. Chef Sean Brock told us his first meal at Manresa changed him saying, “David Kinch is such a brilliant chef, basically it’s vegetables and seafood. There is very little meat. You just taste purity and honesty. He is really creative, but he’s mature enough not to let that get the best of him.”
A. He’s right about the menu, it’s vegetable oriented. It’s about fish and shellfish. We serve meat, but very little bit, it’s kind of like a secondary element, it takes a back seat. I see our food evolving more in that direction.
Q. How important is the Michelin recognition for you?
A. To be recognized by a prestigious organization and by your peers is always great. But it is not and can not be the ultimate goal that we shoot for. It has to be the byproduct of what we try to shoot for. We try to cook the best food we can in a really convivial atmosphere and offer a lot of pleasure to our guests. We want them to leave happy. More importantly, we want them to come back.
Q. If you had to pick the honors of James Beard or Michelin or the recommendation from another chef, which would it be?
A. The recommendation from another chef, absolutely. Chefs eat differently from other people, we dive in deep. At least the ones that are curious. I think we have sort of a calibration and if you find a chef that you certainly agree with and have recommendations from, I trust that.
Q. You have taken vegetables to an art form and almost a science. What was the exploration for you to take it beyond what is expected?
A. It was a challenge. It was a little bit outside the norm, especially where fine dining had been for the past 15 to 20 years, where it was always about luxury ingredients -- rich proteins that would be soft in texture, because that was the taste of elegance and luxury.
Photograph courtesy of Manresa
Vegetables are different. Each one has a different character. They also have a lot of different textures that are the antithesis of that elegance and luxury mindset. What I also found out is that it’s not cheaper cooking vegetables. There is a tremendous amount of work from cleaning, cutting and prepping, just as much as with meat or fish.
Q. It seems that people have a preconceived notion about what a meal using vegetables should cost. Do you find that to be true?
A. You have no idea. I get asked all the time, ‘you grow your own vegetables, you must be saving money.’ We are spending three times more money than if we were shopping at farmers markets and picking up the phone and calling a produce company.
Tips / Advice on Vegetables
Q. What do you think is the most under-rated vegetable?
A. I really like root vegetables because they’re lowly. They’re not regal items like foie gras, caviar, or truffles.
Things like rutabagas, turnips, kohlrabi and cabbage, they’re incredibly versatile. They develop really deep, deep flavors and touch all the sensors on the tongue, because of their sugar and salt. They have this really nice bitterness.
Bitterness is really important, I think bitterness is misunderstood a lot in cooking. So, that is what I like about root vegetables.
[See David’s recipe for Root Vegetable Choucroute.]
Q. What is essential with vegetables?
A. Seasonality. It’s a cliche, but it can’t be over emphasized. There are two things for the home cook:
1) you get the product at its peak
2) you also get it at its cheapest.
You’re not importing it in, it’s not some big footprint to getting it. So, it’s a win-win situation.
I think a lot of lip service is paid to seasonality. You can go to a lot of famous chefs extolling the virtues of seasonality, but then you get a hamburger with a tomato on top in January and February. That, to me, is wrong. The artistic part of our craft is making that burger work without the tomato in January.