After the success of dell’anima, L’Artusi and Anfora, Sommelier Joe Campanale and business partner chef Gabe Thompson are taking their growing empire east with their newest Italian restaurant, L’Apicio. Joe talks about the menu, the wine and beer list, and passes along the six spots he’s currently frequenting in New York.
Q & A with Sommelier Joe Campanale
Q. Tells us about your fourth place, L’Apicio:
A.. It’s definitely Gabe’s food without a doubt. It’s Italian-inspired and there are a lot of fresh home-made pastas, a lot of local and seasonal items, done with Gabe’s creativity and palate. He cooked at Le Bernardin and Del Posto, but he’s from Texas, so he’s good with fish and really bold flavors. We are doing this new dish, that I haven’t really seen around town, called “Polenta Alla Spianatora” which is polenta that is spread out on a flat board. Spianatora actually means to pave, so it’s spread out and served in sharing sizes.
Q. You have California wines on your list, which is a little bit of a departure from your usual Italian. How did you decide what to put on your list?
A.. When we opened up dell’anima, I never would have thought that I’d ever put California wines on the list, especially not a California Chardonnay by the glass. Sommeliers are always into what’s interesting. I’ve been drinking more American wine lately and have been really impressed with what’s going on. Mostly producers who are looking towards either the heritage of America or Europe in order to determine their style of wine making, which means that they’re making wines that are hand-made, that are natural, not manipulated, and are really balanced. They have lower alcohol levels and are often times using interesting and unique grapes.
We’re pouring a Grignolino, which is an obscure grape even within Italy. We’re pouring that by the glass from Napa Valley. Just really interesting wines and I found them to be thrilling. I do think that they pair well with Gabe’s food. When you have those wines that are from the States, they are very full flavored, but still have a lot of acidity. That’s what I think was lacking from a lot of American wines five years ago. Now there is a movement that’s moving back towards that.
Q. You’re also doing some interesting things in the beer department.
A.. Yes and I’m really excited about the beers. The wine list is style-driven, pairing the Old World and the New World. We have different styles for whites, different styles for reds, and the orange wines and rose wines. The beer list mirrors that. The beer list has four general broad categories for beer styles. Sessionable, which means you can knock it back very easily. Hoppy, so all those IPA-style beers. High-octane, so richer, fuller higher alcohol beers. And quirky, because I think there are a lot of beer producers who are doing interesting things that are kind of quirky. Like a chestnut beer or the Allagash Curieux which is aged in Jim Beam bourbon barrels. We also have a yam beer from The Bruery, which does a lot of like Belgian-style beers. I’ve never been a big fan of pumpkin beer, but the yam beer captures all that fall stuff and is more complex and interesting.