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ESTATE ARGYROS - MATTHEOS ARGYROS
WHO
Mattheos is the 4th generation winemaker at Estate Argyros, which has been producing wine on the Greek island of Sanorini since 1903. They are best known for their production of Vin Santo.
WHY
In the 1970’s, when most winemakers sold off their property for real estate profits, the Argyros bought primo vineyard parcels and made radical changes to their winemaking. Estate Argyros is now considered one of the top wineries in Santorini.
November 1, 2010
RECOMMENDATIONS
Mattheos Argyros’ recommendations for Greek wine and where to eat in Santorini, Cyprus, New York, Boston, Brussels, Paris, Dusseldorf, Munich, and Holland.
Interviewed By ETHELIYA HANANOVA
Q & A WITH WINEMAKER MATTHEOS ARGYROS
Q. Estate Argyros is one of the pioneers of the production of Vinsanto (a sweet wine made from dried grapes). Nowadays we most often associate it with Italy, but Vinsanto’s origins lie in Greece. How did that happen?
A. Originally, Vinsanto (as it is known in Greece), refers to the sweet wine from Santorini. This name was given to the wine when it was exported by the Venetians to Italy. The Venetians (many of whom were followers of the Catholic Church) renamed the island, which was then called Thira, Santorini (derived from Santa Irini). Vinsanto was chosen for export to Italy, as none of the dry wines would survive the long voyages on the ships.
The Italians followed suit and started making sweet wine in Tuscany and in the Veneto in the 15th century. This wine was named Vino Santo, meaning ‘holy wine,’ as it was mainly used for the Holy Communion. On the Italian labels, even when they omit the ‘o’ in Vino, and they write only Vin Santo, it has to be 2 separate words and the ‘s’ is always in capital letters.
Q. Your family has been making wine on the island of Santorini for almost 200 years and selling wine since 1903. Did you always want to follow previous generations to become a winemaker?
A. Growing up I was given the freedom to choose what I wanted to do, but I’ve never thought of doing something different. I was practically raised in the winery. I feel blessed to be responsible for my family’s heritage and I happen to really like what I do.
Q. Did you study winemaking formally? Is your family involved in the work of the domain?
A. Yes, I studied viticulture and oenology in Greece. My father hasn’t retired yet, he continues to be active working in the winery and his experience is very valuable to me. The other members of my family are not involved in the business, and the next generation is not ‘ready’ yet.
Q. What are the principal elements responsible for giving the wines the unique character that Santorinian wines are known for?
A. A combination of special conditions on the island, such as volcanic soils and proximity to the ocean and intense winds, definitely contribute to the character of our wines. The wines of Santorini are truly wines of terroir, that’s their main beauty. Assyrtiko, the dominant local grape varietal, reflects terroir very well.
Q. You work mainly with white indigenous grape varietals. Have you ever been tempted to experiment with international varietals more familiar to the mainstream market?
Q. Real estate development has been a growing threat to winemakers on the island as land continues to increase in value. However, before the tourist boom in the 60’s and 70’s, Santorini was not very prosperous. How have things changed for the family domain as a result?
A. Real estate is the big enemy of the image of the island, as well as the enemy of the vineyards. As the land here continues to get more expensive, land owners are encouraged to sell their property and take advantage of the ‘easy’ money rather than keep on cultivating the land, which is hard, precarious work. This threat is becoming bigger as the new generation of land owners and producers is less willing to continue the lifestyle of a grower.
Assyrtiko Grapes
The unfortunate consequence of this is that the cost of production of wines in Santorini remains very high, not only because everything is hand-harvested, but also because of the prices of the real estate.
Q. Greek wine still has a relatively minor presence on the international market compared to other countries. What are the challenges preventing Greek winemakers from having wider exposure in the international market?
A. Greece has a very long winemaking history, but the dominance of rustic, old-style wines, cheap table wines, Retsina, and bad labels definitely hurt the reputation of Greek wines. The overall improvement in quality is quite recent. It’s great to focus on preserving the Greek identity of the country’s wines, but not at the expense of progress and improvement.
Q. Why is Retsina (the famous Greek wine infused with pine resin) the primary association that many people have with Greek wine? How do the locals view it?
A. For a long time, Retsina, and often low-quality Retsina, was one of the main products exported from Greece. Locally, Retsina is generally seen as a cheap table wine.
Recommendations
FIND...
Q. What other winemakers do you respect in Greece and abroad?
A. In Greece, I have great respect for:
- Evangelos Gerovassiliou of Domaine Gerovassiliou
- Vassilis Tsaktsarlis from Estate Biblia Chora (Mr. Gerovassilliou is a partner in the estate; both estates are located in Macedonia)
- Yiannis Paraskevopoulos from Gaia Estate in the Aegean Islands
- Apostolos Thimiopoulos of Thimiopoulos Vineyards in Naoussa
- Thanasis Parparoussis in the Peloponnese.
Each one of them is using talent, insight and creativity to make good wines.
Winemakers that I respect from abroad include:
- Peter Barry from Jim Barry Wines in Australia
- Enrico Dellapiana from Rizzi in Piedmont, Italy.
[See details.]
Q. What do you prefer to drink?
A. I love to drink Northern Rhône syrah; my favorites are the Hermitages by E. Guigal and Delas.
[See details.]
EAT/DRINK ...
Q. Where do you like to eat and drink locally?
A. Perivoli - for the most original Santorinian cuisine, but in a modern style.
1800 - for molecular cuisine in a very traditional old captain’s house with a great view.
Koukoumavlos - for a modern, almost extreme approach, good cellar and nice view of the caldera (a basin surrounded by breathtakingly steep cliffs resulting from an ancient volcanic eruption in the Aegean Sea).
Selene - for excellent food and wine pairings.
Nichteri - for casual Santorinian cuisine on the beach; imagine that it is a tavern with a sommelier.
Kokkino Podilato (meaning ‘red bicycle’) - for their great balcony, their warm smiles, and the best homemade desserts on the island.
[See details.]
Q. Where do you like to eat and drink elsewhere in Greece and abroad:
A. Fat fish and Ta Piatakia in Limassol, Cyprus.
Molyvos in New York.
Dio Deka in California.
Bin 26 in Boston.
Strofilia in Brussels.
Hafenperle in Düsseldorf.
Kytaro and Cavos in Munich.
Mavrommatis in Paris.
Zefyros in Ridderkerk, Holland
[See details.]
Mattheos Argyros’ recommendations for Greek wine and where to eat in Santorini, Cyprus, New York, Boston, Brussels, Paris, Dusseldorf, Munich, and Holland.
RECOMMENDATIONS
ESTATE ARGYROS
Santorini Cyclades
Mesa Gonia Episkopis
84700 Greece (view map)
T: +30/22860.31489
Website:
Find Their Wines:
Available in the US at these retailers
Photograph Courtesy of Estate Argyros
