Q & A with Restaurateur James Mallios
Q. For people who have never been to Amali, can you tell us about it:
A. The name Amali is inspired by a historical region that encompassed much of the modern day Mediterranean. One of the highest compliments a Greek can say is that food is katharo - clean. Our menu emphasizes the food people actually eat in the Mediterranean - seasonal vegetables, olive oil, cheese and grains. We don't sell a Greek salad in the winter, when local tomatoes are not in season. When they are, we will serve it the traditional Greek way: just olive oil and a little lemon juice (tomatoes, not vinegar, provides the acid when you eat this salad in Greek homes).
We order whole, humanely-raised animals and butcher them in the restaurant, which is why we constantly change the cut of meat that we offer. This commitment permeates the wine list and in the sustainable design of the restaurant, where almost every item is repurposed from New York City buildings and made by artisans in the Bronx and Brooklyn.
These behaviors exemplify our focus on a real tradition and not a ghettoized American bastardization of it - which is what sadly happens most of the time when a restaurant calls itself Mediterranean.
Q. How would you describe your perfect meal at Amali?
A. Sitting at the communal table and sharing courses - starting with vegetables, sharing a pasta and then splitting a whole fish or rib steak with a Beaujolais or Rose. If I could have a wine list that was 30% rose and actually sell the wine, I would. I still might.
Q. You are from Greek descent -- how did that influence you in the process of creating Amali? Was there a particular place in Greece that influenced you in creating Amali?
A. I can actually trace my roots back to Venice, as well as Greece, and it got me thinking about the commonalities shared by all Mediterranean countries and is exemplified by a restaurant in Mykonos called Kiki's.