Q & A with Chef Didier Elena
Q. Please tell us about the current focus of your menu:
A. Vegetables are a primary focus on the menu in Adour. We have a seven-course Vegetarian Tasting menu, which is constantly evolving to include dishes that utilize the season’s freshest ingredients. We also have two signature Cookpot dishes on the menu, which is composed of seven seasonal vegetables specific to the region.
Q. You took a six year hiatus from New York, what did you miss most about New York in the time you were away?
A. There was so much that I missed! I missed the city itself, and its vibrant energy. I love that you can authentic Italian food, Japanese food, delis, especially Katz’s — which is a favorite of mine.
Q. As a protégé and long time collaborator with Alain Ducasse, what are some of the key lessons you’ve learned from him?
A. Alain Ducasse has played a large role in my in my culinary training and career. He has always placed a great emphasis on using the best products available and has taught me how to respect the flavors of each ingredient that I use in a dish.
Q. You work in one of the fanciest restaurants in the world, is there a “low brow” thing you love to eat that would really surprise us?
A. I enjoy going out for casual meals and I especially love the pastrami sandwich from Katz’s Deli.
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Q. You’ve recently added a Vegetarian Tasting menu. What vegetables do you think are underrated?
A. I think legumes such as lentils, and grains such as corn, are underrated and many are great sources of protein.
Q. What are some common mistakes people make when cooking vegetables?
A. At the moment, I can think of four common mistakes when cooking with vegetables:
1. Overcooking vegetables.
People tend to overcook vegetables, stripping them of their texture and flavor.
2. Cooking vegetables in water.
Vegetables should be cooked in their own natural juices to preserve their flavor.
3. Using vegetables that are out of season.
While it may seem obvious, utilizing fresh, in season vegetables is very important.
4. Making vegetables an afterthought.
Typically vegetables are uses as a garnish or a side dish and often are an afterthought to the rest of the meal, however I think that vegetables should play a starring role in the meal and compliment all of the other flavors that are being incorporated into the dish.
FIND...
Q. Are there specific food markets that you like to shop for French ingredients?
A. There are many places that I like to shop in New York and I find that I can get some of the best, freshest ingredients. I often get inspired to create new dishes when I am browsing at a market. I especially love Chelsea Market for its variety of products.
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Q. For home cooks focused on French cuisine, what basic and interesting items should be in their pantry and refrigerator?
A. I think that everyone should have basic ingredients such as olive oil, garlic, lemon and Dijon mustard in their pantry.
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Q. What resources (stores/websites/Twitter people) do you like for finding food-related information?
A. Sustainability and local cuisine has become an important focus for me and the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch website is a valuable resource. I visit it for advice on which seafood I should be using and which seafood I shouldn’t be using. It also features sustainable recipes.
For culinary news, I read blogs such as Eater and Grub Street.
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EAT...
New York
Q. What restaurants do you go to for authentic French food in NYC?
A. One of my favorite French restaurants in New York is 8 ½ Brasserie, I like the crab cakes as well as their seasonal dishes.
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Q. What other cuisines do you love/inspire you and which restaurants do you eat at for those cuisines?
A. I love Japanese food for its simplicity and use of fresh ingredients. I also love Italian food had how it can be enjoyed family style. It also reminds me of my childhood. My favorite is Yakitori Totto.
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Q. What off the beaten track or casual restaurant do you like?
A. My favorite restaurants are simple, casual and authentic dining experiences. I especially like Peasant and Aquagrill, for their delicious oysters.
I also really like Wild Edibles; they have great seafood and I like sitting at the bar.
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Q. If we were to go to Monaco and Reims, what restaurants could you send us to that only locals know about and what should we order?
A.
Reims
In Reims, I would recommend L'Assiette Champenoise, Arnaud Lallement’s restaurant, for delicious French cuisine.
I would also recommend The Glue Pot for its burger.
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Monaco
In Monaco, I would recommend Alain Ducasse’s La Trattoria.
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DRINK...
Q. Do you have a favorite aperitif and digestif to start and end a meal?
A. My favorite aperitif before a meal is champagne. My favorite is Charles Heidsieck. I typically don’t end a meal with a digestive, but if I were, I would choose a sweet wine from Southern Italy or South Africa.
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Q. Do you have a place in New York that you love to go to for wine/cocktails/drinks?
A. I enjoy wine with a meal and champagne prior to a meal when I go out to restaurants. I don’t generally drink cocktails.
Q. Where should we go for drinks in Monaco & Reims?
A. In Monaco, Sabor di Vino has an extensive wine list, with over 10,000 bottles in its cellar.
In Reims, both restaurants, L'Assiette Champenoise and The Glue Pot, have wonderful champagne.
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Recommendations
Details of Didier Elena’s recommendations for where to eat, drink and shop in New York, Reims and Monaco.
Recipes
- Vegetable Boulangère Cookpot