Q & A WITH CHEF JOSEPH OGRODNEK

Q. Please tell us about Anella:

A. Anella is a small, intimate restaurant in Greenpoint, Brooklyn. The menu features seasonal American cuisine with a focus on market vegetables, and local products.

Q. What are the essential changes you’ve made since you became the chef at Anella?

A. The most important change we’ve made over the last six months is the quality of the food. I feel we’ve brought a new level of dining to the neighborhood.  It’s a very artisanal restaurant in the sense that most of the items we use; bread, pasta, ice cream, pastry, sausage, are all made in house. Everything we can do, we do.

Q. What are you growing in your garden this summer that we’ll see used in dishes?

Q. Are there certain items you only will buy from the farmers markets?

A. Yes, the type of produce I prefer to buy from the farmers’ market are the seasonal vegetables and fruits. The things that will benefit from being hand picked.

For example, when you order a case of peaches through a produce company, it’s uncertain how ripe they’ll be, or if they will even fully ripen at all. But at the market I can see, feel, and even taste the products. And because we are a smaller restaurant, I have the ability to personally go to the market 3-4 times a week and pick out the produce myself.

Q. The most essential thing I learned working at Gramercy Tavern was:

A. How to work with people and get the most out of them. The Union Square Hospitality Group is one of the few restaurant groups that actually treats people like people. Seems basic, but I really believe this is one of the most important parts of having a successful business, and sadly, most restaurants, especially kitchens, lack this.

Q. Proudest moment as a chef?

A. A few weeks into me taking the position here at Anella, an old friend of mine, Stuart Pellegrino, who was actually the first chef I ever worked for in Philadelphia, called me up and told me he was in New York City for a day and wanted to see me. I told him about the restaurant and asked him to stop in for dinner that evening. Having him come in reminded me of how far I’ve come since my first days in the kitchen. It’s a long hard road becoming a chef, a road many start on but few actually stay on. I was proud to cook for my chef, to have him come in to my restaurant, and see my name on the menu.

Q. Is there a cookbook, new or vintage that is like a bible to you?

A. One of my favorite cookbooks that I still refer to sometimes is Alain Ducasse’s Grand Livre de Cuisine. I think the most important thing I learned working for him was how to make food beautiful, taking simple, basic ingredients and ideas, but treating them with an unprecedented attention to detail. Handling food with perfection.

His pastry book is equally as impressive, I can’t really think of another book like it, just how comprehensive it is with technique and detail.

Q. Any exciting projects in your future?

A. Nothing different than Anella, taking this position has been an amazing experience and I am still very much excited to be here every day. I think I’ll remain focused on this for a while longer before planning something new, Anella is still very new to me.

Recommendations

Q. Off the beaten track places to eat, that you’d be excited to take an adventurous eater?

A. Sake Bar Hagi is one of my favorite restaurants that I still frequent. It’s a Japanese yakitori (izakaya) restaurant on 49th Street near 7th Avenue. They are open late and always packed. Try the eel tempura with plum salt.

Q. Is there a restaurant that you are constantly returning to?

A. My girlfriend and I have lunch at ‘ino about once a week. We just love the place. It’s a small Italian wine bar with a great atmosphere. I love the food. For me, it’s one of the best sandwiches in town.

Q. Who else in your field do you think deserves more praise?

A. Michael Anthony, Executive Chef at Gramercy Tavern. To me, he is the chef of a new era. His style of teaching and managing techniques are so different from the chefs of the past.

It’s a hard life for the cook and most fine dinning restaurants will push their cooks to the breaking point with insane work weeks and constant criticism.  Mike has managed to get the most out of his employees by treating them like family. Sounds simple, but it’s really unheard of in the kitchen world. He is also constantly working to give back to the community and the youth of the neighborhood. Without a doubt - the nicest chef there is.

Q. What purveyors or shops inspire you?

A. I love going to the greenmarket at Union Square. Just seeing all the different fruits and vegetables is a great way to get ideas for new dishes. It’s one of the best markets of its kind.

Q. Where do you go for great cocktails?

A. To Little Branch. It’s a simple underground cocktail bar with a great feel.

Q. How about a great wine list?

A. ‘inoteca - awesome, well-rounded wine list with a lot of great value bottles.

Q. Places that have great food and are budget friendly... and what should we order?

A. Joe’s Shanghai: soup dumplings.

Corner Bistro: bistro burger.

Frankie’s Spuntino: tuna sandwich.

Azure Café: falafel sandwich.

Lucali’s: pizza.

Kebab Café: mezze platter.

Seva: crispy bok choy.

Sripraphai: watercress salad.

Photograph by Somer Ogrodnek

- Pumpkin Bisque

- Flower Pot Bread

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