Joseph Leonard, American, Gabriel Stulman, Gabe Stulman, Chef James McDuffee, West Village, Traditional American Food, Little Owl, Market Table, Waverly Place, Sheridan Square, Bistro Menu, Low Country,

Getting into Joseph Leonard requires skillful planning. There are only seven tables, they don’t take reservations, and there is no hang-out area. This is a strong deterrent if you like to eat at prime time and desire anything bigger than a two-top. The design is cozy farmhouse antique store, with an accent on distressed - redbrick walls, old suitcases, tattered books, and other flea market finds.

Chef James McDuffee left Bouchon Bakery to work with owner Gabriel Stulman (formerly of Little Owl and Market Table) and create a menu that ranges from shrimp and grits ($12) to boeuf bourguignon ($25). It’s French technique mixed with southern influence, and some nice food geek offerings like bone marrow ($14), duck rillette ($11), and crispy braised pork hock ($24). Soggy toast is one of their signature dishes and it’s exactly what it sounds like. The magic of the dish comes from the bread soaking in pan drippings, pan fried, then dressed up with oyster mushrooms, and a poached egg. Chef McDuffee came up with the idea from his family jousting with bread bits to score coveted pan sauces. It may strike you as peculiar item to serve, especially for $12, but it’s memorable, delicious, and qualifies as a polite way to savor the gravy. Instead of bread to welcome you when you’re seated, a Mason jar filled with cornichons is set on the table. A less guilty, less filling snack while you’re pouring over the menu.

The staff is laid back and friendly, and many of the people working there are Gabriel’s pals from former jobs together, and even his college days.

All in all, the menu at Joseph Leonard is interesting and diverse enough that you could become a regular, that is if you don’t mind waiting for a table.

Recommendations

Chef James McDuffee’s recommendations for where to eat in Manhattan and Brooklyn.

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