Q & A with Alexandre Gabriel, President of Pierre Ferrand
Drink | Dry Curacao Ancienne Methode
Bitter Oranges
The Dry Curaçao Ancienne Méthode is made with curacao oranges from the Caribbean, which are bitter oranges. The fruit is totally uninteresting, but the skin isn’t.
The Way It Began
David Wondrich, the cocktail historian, came to me at one point and said, ‘I need something like an orange curacao, because there is no more real curacao. Now it’s either orange, it’s blue, it’s over-sweet, it’s made with grain basic neutral spirit, NGS and we don’t have the real thing.’ In the old days, the orange curacao was bitter orange. This got me thinking that I should use one of the 50 recipes of curacao I have from the 19th century.
The Savoy Cocktail Book
In the original Savoy cocktail book from the 1930s, one drink out of three calls for curacao. But it’s not available anymore. If you go to a store and ask for a curacao, you’ll get the orange sticky stuff. Curaçao can be a cheap, plastic, nasty liqueur or it can be heaven in a bottle. It all depends on the ingredients and the production method. Since there wasn’t a good one on the market, Dale DeGroff was saying that you blend fifty percent Grand Marnier, fifty percent Cointreau and pray for the best! Just more on the sweeter orange and not the bitter orange.
Production
So, we started making it. The production is three different steps: infusion, distillation and re-infusion. The skin is peeled and you sun dry it, add a touch of lemon and sweet oranges, and infuse it into an un-aged brandy. You then distill it and blend it with brandy and cognac. The brandy has also been infused with very small quantities of secret ingredients, vegetable infusions, including the outside of walnuts. There is a technique as a producer that always says if you want to make a great product that really tastes like that product, you have to use very small quantities of other products that complement it.
Aging
We put it back into a cask, the same casks that we use for cognac, and we use the orange peels again. We have some practice in cask aging, Cognac has been doing it for 500 years. Cask aging is kind of the trickiest part for spirit making. Distilling is quite straightforward and the aging is more technical. We age the curacao for one year.
What Dry Means
The “Dry” in the name refers to the use of bitter oranges rather than sweet oranges. You can taste the balance and it registers well.
Cocktails
It works well with cognac, so it makes an incredible Sidecar cocktail, an authentic Margarita, or anything that you want that has orange, because it cuts through the aromas. It’s also delicious in coffee.
Availability
Pierre Ferrand Dry Curaçao Ancienne Méthode will be available nationwide in March (2012) and retail for approximately $30. [find it]